California's Loss is Texas' Gain!!!

Northwest of Austin, just off Highway 71, down some winding farm roads, across a couple of cattle guards, nestled under a grove of old oak tree is a cool Texas winery that you need to visit...Spicewood Vineyards. This is one of the OG Texas Wineries; founded in 1992 by Edward and Madeleine Manigold with a goal of making the finest wines possible and their very first Chardonnay won a silver medal in a national competition. The Manigolds gave their baby tender loving care for many years until 2007 when the Yates family purchased the property and now joyfully continue the tradition of making fine wines that continue to win State, Regional, National and International competitions.

On Sunday September 27th I had the great pleasure to attended a very special evening that celebrating Todd Crowells, winemaking in his 'new' home at Spicewood Vineyards and his old home Christopher Creek in Sonoma California. Spicewood owner Ron Yates, and Christopher Creek owner Dominic Foppoli co-hosted the event.  They commented on the talents and benefits of Todd's winemaking while regaling the attendees with the fun, funny and entertaining moments of owning and working at a winery. Dominic lamented not having Todd as winemaker on more than one occasion.

It was a great setting in the limestone walled cellar filled with barrels of aging wine and bins of recently picked grapes fermenting, on their way to becoming wine.  In the midst of this wine 'river;' corks were sprung from bottles from California and Texas, the wine bubbled and poured into the many glasses of the eager and enthusiastic tasters. Who savored and enjoyed every drop of wine and every turn of phrase from the storytellers.

Wines Tasted:
Albarino,  Spicewood, Texas High Plains, 2014
Expressive aromas, very fruity almost tooty fruity, quite floral. On the palette the tangy fruity quality abound, with citrus and melon flavors making this wine very enjoyable to drink with it's light crisp finish.

Sauvingnon Blanc,  Spicewood, Estate, Texas Hill Country, 2014 

Nicely and slightly effervescent with aromas of tropical fruit and dried hay. The flavors of grapefruit come through quite enjoyably with a hint of kiwi and a refreshing finish. Made from mature vines planted by the Manigolds in the early '90's; excellent!

Chardonnay, Foppoli, Reserve, Russian River Valley, California, 2011

Mysterious aromas; alluring and beguiling. The flavors are very revealing with pronounced apple, caramel and fruitiness that is just shy of being sweet. Supple feeling on the palette with just a hint of minerals in the finish. A very pretty California Chardonnay that is well made and fun.

Pinot Noir, Christopher Creek, Eastside Vineyard, Russian River Valley, Sanoma, California, 2014

Very smoky on the nose with raspberry aromas. In your mouth the fruity raspberry flavors explode with blackberry fruit following through where the smoky and oak touches come through too the finish.

Pinot Noir, Christopher Creek, "Wine Family" Vineyard, Russian River Valley, Sanoma, California, 2014

Begins with a funky nose showing the raspberry fruit too. The flavors are very delicious with the raspberry fruit and balanced oak and that earthy complexity.  Shows great promise, just needs a little more time in the bottle.

Red Blend, "The Good Guy" Spicewood, Estate, Texas Hill Country, 2013 
(This was a preview of the 2013, made with 31% Tempranillo, 31% Merlot, and Graciano, Cab, Syrah.) Effusive vanilla aromas with smoky and toasty notes with cedar, pepper and a handsome floral flourish. The flavors were a tad more reserved with raspberry, pepper and pleasing coco notes.  Showing the early signs of a great wine that will reward the drinker who has the self control to age it.

Red Blend, Benevolo, Reserve, Napa Valley, California, 2011

Classic single vineyard red Bordeaux varietals – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot, and Malbec. Napa Valley grapes in the hands of Sonoma winemakers! The aromatic qualities of pine and pepper are mouthwatering with nice round plum fruit.  The delicious red and black cherry fruit come through up front and proud with some tangy tannins following.  Secondary flavors of coco, spice and leather add complexity and enjoyment of this pleasurable wine.

Zinfandel, Spicewood, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, California, 2013 

A little wine that Todd Crowell missed making and Ron Yates made happen for his winemaker, winery and all of us wine drinkers! California Zinfandel is one of the worlds most unique wines and I love them. This wine has a great rhubarb aroma with boysenberry and cracked black pepper.  The flavors are big and rich with red cherry, ripe raspberry, white pepper and soft vanilla. Pure pleasure.

From here the group of Spicewood supporters, newly initiated, and curious passer bys all adjourned to the elegant Event Center where we further indulged in wine and perfectly paired small plate foods! My favorite was the Good Guy wine with the duck.  All were excellent! And, even better was the conversation with the Yates family and friends. Events like this are hedonistic without a doubt and designed to please all of your senses, but the real je ne sais quoi comes from the interaction of the attendees.  And, the Yates at Spicewood have it going on!

I implore you to go to Spicewood Vineyards the next chance you get. With October being Texas Wine Month; you should be going to Texas wineries every weekend! I hope to see you in wine country!

Milestone: Alamosa Wine Cellars Closing

There are events in time that mark the boundary between that time and this time.  Sometimes we see them in hindsight and sometimes they are obvious to everyone when they occur.  This milestone may not be obvious to everyone, so I have appointed myself to draw it to your attention.  Alamosa Wine Cellars is closing; Labor Day weekend; September 6th, last day.  You MUST go visit this winery before it closes!!!

One of the Way Out Wineries (WOW!) between Lampasas and San Saba, it is a bit of a journey and well worth it.  The owners, Jim and Karen Johnson, planted grapes here in 1996, and proceeded to change how Texans grew grapes and made wine.  They were the pioneers out on the frontier of warm climate grape growing and artisanal winemaking, literally and figuratively.

We need to compile Jim Johnson's firsts in Texas; he helped produce Becker Vineyards’ first Viognier in the early 1990s, he was the first to grow Sangiovese and the first to commercially bottle Tempranillo.  The first to plant and bottle Verdelho, and I am sure there are many more.

My fondest memory is attending a Paso Robles seminar in Austin and during the question and answer session there was this couple asking about the clone of root stock the growers were planting on.  This was a much more technical question than the sommeliers and wine pros in the room were asking.  After the seminar I went and meet Jim and Karen Johnson, needing to know who they were.  It has been a pleasure knowing them ever since; tasting their wines, selling their wines, introducing their wines to new customers, hosting wine dinner with them, attending wine dinners and festivals with them.  I am here to tell you that the Texas wine industry is in the place it is today, poised to step onto the world stage, because of the hard work and inspired vision of Jim and Karen Johnson.

If you have not been to Alamosa Wine Cellars; you must go, the clock is ticking.  Jim and Karen plan to sell every last bottle of wine in the tasting room and the property itself!!!  You do not want to miss this piece of Texas Wine history, you must see the vineyards and winery and taste the delicious wines that have a strong sense of the place they are from.  They are offering big discounts on cases and individual bottles through Sept. 6, the last day they will be open. And they also will have fun events up until then, including an intimate retrospective tasting on Aug. 8 that will showcase some of Alamosa’s best vintages over the years, “the stuff we’re most proud of,” Jim Johnson says. Get tickets for the Library Tasting here.

Alamosa Wine Cellars, 677 County Road 430, west of Bend. 325-628-3313, alamosawinecellars.com.

Texas will go on to surpass New York and even Oregon in winemaking.  Texas wines will someday be available throughout the nation and even in other countries.  These milestones will be remarkable and newsworthy when they happen, we will all celebrate!  I for one will look back to this unlikely spot on the a bend in the Colorado river and appreciate it's out-sized contribution it made to the maturing and the direction of the grape growing and winemaking in Texas.  I will be there cheering "Remember the Alamosa!!!" 

Chardonnay, JOSEPH CARR, "DIJON CLONE", Sonoma Coast, California

California estate vineyards with traditional French techniques makes this Chardonnay delicious.  The vines are Dijon Clones 75, 76, 95, 96  growing in the Sonoma Coast region. The Growers picked the grapes by hand at the peak of ripeness and the winery gently pressed the grapes into juice using a membrane press. The juice was then chilled, settled, and racked into Burgundy oak barrels for fermentation. The yeast lees were hand stirred monthly to enhance the creamy finish produced by barrel fermentation and to encourage secondary malolactic fermentation. Less than 1,200 cases were produced.

• Apple
• Pear
• Vanilla
• Butter
• Citrus
• Tropical fruit 
• Creamy Butter
• Toasty

In 2009, New York Times writer Eric Asimov proclaimed Joseph Carr to be “a producer to watch”, and put his wines alongside the likes of Far Niente, Clos du Val, Heitz, Grgich Hills and Rubicon. Mr. Asimov continues to comment that these are “wines of balance and restraint”. As director of Joseph Carr Napa Valley, Joseph continues to work with many of the associates he has met throughout his long career in restaurants as a Sommelier. Influenced by the wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy, Joseph Carr's winemaking philosophy is balance, sophistication and approachable. Since launching his business in 2005, Mr. Carr's wines have been received with great enthusiasm. His wines grace some of the finest restaurant lists in the United States and abroad.

BRANNON'S CAFE
WINE LIST

Wine Study- "Grapes and Fizz"

"What is it about bubbles that it can transform ordinary wine from a drink into a celebration?"
 –Jancis Robinson.

We continue a series of sessions with the Francesca's at Sunset and Brannon's Cafe teams we are calling "Wine Study."  Our guide is Jancis Robinson's Wine Course DVD, Mrs. Robinson poured depth and detail into this television series that aired in the United Kingdom in 1995; it withstands the test of time!  If you have not purchased this DVD series yet; do so now!

Episode 9- Grapes and Fizz is a celebration of Sparkling wine!  When the bubbles are flowing we all hope, wish and are excited by the idea that the wine is CHAMPAGNE!  Associated with success and glamour more than any other wine it has earned this prized position in the hearts and minds of all wine lovers and casual consumers.


Just one-hundred miles east of Paris, just past Euro Disney; the little town of Epernay; has the richest street in France with over one billion of the world’s most expensive bottles of wine all stored under ground, improving with age. Deceptively simple are the labels of Champagne bottles, just having the house name and little other information.  It is actually a complex blend of grapes, vineyards, and often vintages.  The Champagne producers say “Trust us; keep on buying the dream.”  Like all dreams it takes effort and determination to keep it going.

Champagne had to overcome the recession in the 1990’s, some sought to revitalize and modernize.  Enter; Ricard Geoffrey, trained as a doctor, we see him here in the mid 1990s taking over the helm of Moët & Chandon (he goes on to become the face of and blending hand for their uber famous prestige cuvée- Dom Pérignon)  He was the first to add the blend of grapes and age of wine on Champagne labels.  He has proven himself as a master at blending the Champagne grapes; Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Munier.  A remarkable feat because when tasting them in their pre-sparkling form they are very tart and high in acidity. He explains that they taste only twenty samples a session, and the trick is to foresee which wines will transform into creamy rich complex and delicious Champagne.

Once the blend is complete the wine is bottled with additional sugar and yeast then taken to the cellar to sleep, ideally for years.  Champagne’s unique style comes from aging with yeast in the bottle in these dark, wet and cold cellars; this is the ESSENCE of Champagne.  Moët & Chandon has over sixty-five miles of tunnels under the town. There workers spend eight hours in the mold and cold, their clothes get wet, their bodies are chilled to the bone and it can all lead to illness. Yet, it seems that the traditional method is still favored and the primary way to make world class sparkling wine.  While Jancis shows us alternative methods: Alginate Beads and a Membrane Cartridge (or basket) none are widely used today.

How much of this is marketing and how much is reality?  It is always had to say, what is know is that Champagne is all about IMAGE. Champagne is a relatively small region with a very big name to protect. They closely govern how wine is made in the region; any variance in the rules that delivers this extraordinary wine is not tolerated in Champagne. Over the years the word "Champagne" is has become so full of meaning, so desirable that it has always been a highly sought-after name. One of the Office of Champagne's missions is to recognize and protect the exclusive nature of the appellation and its namesake. In that regard, it must be stressed that attempts to replicate or mimic the process in other places around the world may produce fine wines, yet they do not produce Champagne.

That has not stopped anyone from trying, least of all the Champagne houses themselves.  While in California on business the owner of Moët & Chandon stumbled in to Wine Institute of California meeting from that experience decided to buy property in Napa and create the Chandon Winery now a focal point of valley and  the California wine country.  At the time the growers of Champagne thought they were joking, making sparkling wine anywhere but Champagne was laughable.  However in the end it has contributed to and increased the prestige of Champagne!

Moët & Chandon has since been able to reproduce the success of Chandon around the world. They went on to open sparkling wine operations in Spain, Argentina, Brazil, Australia and most recently CHINA!  They have realized their potential by making sparkling wine around the world; their presences in each wine market educates and invigorates the demand for sparkling wine making the demand for all their sparkling wine, including their Champagne EXPLODE! 

Another episode that is amazing television!  In this show Mrs. Robinson takes around the globe with Moët & Chandon illustrating how dynamic a company can become.  And she did not even cover CAVA from along the Catalan coast, in the Penedès DO of Spain, OR- PROSECCO of the Veneto region in Italy.  Both are widely successful and enjoyed more since this show was made; so they are covered in this handout which has a few notes from the video and a lot of information and links to more on the web related to the topics Jancis covers.  It is my endeavor to add to the subjects and fills you in on where the personalities from the video are today.  It is my sincere hope that you are finding this blog informative and instructional.  To check your learning experience and highlight the most important information here is the quiz.  And the quiz with answers.  And please reply to this blog; is Sparkling wine  your  favorite wine?

Wine Study- "Apertife"

Endangered by Cabernet Sauvignon? The Rocky Terraces Cailouteuses in Roussillon France

“I have seen the future of wine and it’s name is Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.” –Jancis Robinson

Today we start a series of sessions with the Francesca's at Sunset and Brannon's Cafe teams we are calling "Wine Study."  We will be meeting every other Saturday for the purpose of expanding our knowledge and experience with wine.  Our first guide will be Jancis Robinson's Wine Course DVD, an excellent resource!  Aired in the United Kingdom in 1995 and is fascinating to see both area where the wine industry has not changed and areas where it has.

Episode 1- Aperitif has a powerful hold on me because of the narrative arch Jancis takes us on; after filling in her background she tells you quite convincingly that the ONLY opinion about wine that matters in your own. As she builds the story of the wine industry showing us the competition results and supermarket buyers at work juxtaposition to vines being pulled up and wineries passed over by the buyers, and the changing habits of the wine drinking population.  At the end she boldly proclaims “I have seen the future of wine and it’s name is Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.” Probably not quite prophetic in 1995, it is amazing at how DOMINATE these two grapes have become.  From the vantage point; here in the future, I can see just how right she is today.  To drive the point home we can look up the places featured; the most dramatic being Domaine de Mayrac, which the supermarket buyer passed over, was sold by the Buoro family in five years of the filming.  Carignan, the grape vines being bulldozed in the video, in the Languedoc and Roussillon regions the planting area has decreased by seventy-one percent ((as of 2009, most likely even more today) or is it less...meaning more bulldozing and less Carignan grapes.) This is where it impacts me; yes it is our opinion that matters and the wine choices we make today have deeply profound effects in the lives and communities around the world. As consumers, sellers, educators and lovers of wine we have to make the right choices, informed choices and wise choices. 


It is a very compelling episode which is informative and instructional. Our group watched it and I provided this handout which has a few notes from the video and some information and links to more on the web related to the topics Jancis covers, hopefully it adds a bit of depth on the subjects.

To check your learning experience and highlight the most important information here is the quiz.  And the quiz with answers. And please reply to this blog; do you believe the future of wine is Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon?

sugar + yeast = alcohol, Co2 and heat

"wine is proof that God loves us." -Benjamin Franklin

The formula for wine: sugar + yeast = alcohol, Co2 and heat.  It could not be any simpler.  Out of this tiny equation springs forth a deep ocean of flavors and experiences.  This natural process can and will occur with out mankind’s involvement; prompting the illuminated comment by Benjamin Franklin.

Yeast is all around us in the environment including the skins of grapes, as soon as the yeast comes into contact with the sugar inside the grapes it converts the natural sugars of the juice into alcohol, carbon dioxide and heat. A vat of fermenting grapes is ALIVE!  It looks and feels alive to the touch.  It is a very exciting to experience, to witness! Do yourself a favor and seek out the opportunity.  After the carbon dioxide bubbles and the yeast have done their work what remains is WINE! (Or the winemaker traps the carbon dioxide in the wine for sparkling or method Champenoise.  More on that later.)

(Note: While Fermentation will often occur naturally, many winemakers control the fermentation with cultured yeast.)

The wonderful marvel of this natural phenomenon is that we understand so much about it yet can not duplicate it artificially.  As noted in the sub-section titled “WATER INTO WINE” in The Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia by Tom Stephenson “The individual flavoring elements in any wine represent barely two percent of its content. Although we can determine with great accuracy the amount and identity of 99 percent of these constituents, the mystery is that if we assembled them and added the requisite volume of water and alcohol, the result would taste nothing like wine, let alone like the specific wine we would be trying to imitate.”  Did you catch that?  Wine can NOT be made in a test tube!

Understanding this genesis of wine is key to loving wine and appreciating this beverage.  It is magical and mystical the way so many varied flavor and taste experiences come from what are very basic ingredients; sugar + yeast = alcohol, Co2 and heat!

To learn more on the technical aspects of fermentation take a look at this great web site: http://www.winepros.org/wine101/enology.htm